Original scientific paper

STYLISTIC INFLUENCES ON THE NATIONAL GARB

Marijana Gušić ; Zagreb

Abstract

Starting from the standpoint that a national dress is a completed historical fact, the authoress states that a number of factors have contributed to the material shaping of a national garb though a process of acculturation, resulting with the final appearance of the dress. In that shaping there were impulses coming to the peasants from the higher sylistic accomplishments. Looking for an axample, the authoress analyzes a variant from of the Pannonic white dress found in the national costume from Prokuplje, a region lying on the Kupa river not far from Karlovac. That peasant garb shows an evident influence of the Gothic stylization in a typical Slavic linen dress. While the basic dress has remained within the framework of the agraria autarchy and basic material of the common Slavic character, this dress has ultimately and in various details undergone a transformation during the late Middle Ages, so that it now reveals features of the late Gothic stylization. The characteristic stylistic element has particularly been retained by the technique of ornamental embroidery that emerged in Europe in the transition time when the Gothic ornaments grew into the artistic work of the early Renaissance. In order to confirm her observation, the authoress describes two examples of such ornament which has remained in the Pokuplje variant as the main adornment up to this day. One of those two examples involves the chest and wrist ornaments on the men’s shirts from villages lying on the left bank of the Kupa river, from Šišljavić to Jamnica. The embroidered ornament in that example has consistently been executed in the so called Holbein technique. The characteristic feature in that precisely executed ornament in the shading obtained by applying dark silk to the contour lines of small motifs, the latter being embroided by the finest stitches. The completely white ornament of the other example, really exceptional, has been executed in a to-day unknown technique locally called »naniričano«; this term, according to the authoress, might be related to the Italian »ricamo«, i. e. embroidery. All considered, it results that the stylistic influences on the white linen embroidery in these Croatian villages have their origin in the known cultural centre of Ozalj, the feudal castile not far from Karlovac. In the opinion of the authoress, the distinctive factor in that centre was the presence of the personality of the countess Beatrice Frankopan in the 15th-16th century transition period. Once accepted, the embroidery was retained in the peasant material trimmings up to to-day’s abrupt change, when it quickly disappears in the whirl of recent transformation.

Keywords

Hrčak ID:

159659

URI

https://hrcak.srce.hr/159659

Publication date:

23.12.1980.

Article data in other languages: croatian

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