Izvorni znanstveni članak
https://doi.org/10.52064/vamz.57.1.5
Use of metal threads in profane medieval textiles across the eastern Adriatic region and its hinterland
Ozana Martinčić
orcid.org/0000-0001-7709-9406
*
* Autor za dopisivanje.
Sažetak
The largest portion of textile remnants unearthed from medieval
graves in the eastern Adriatic and its hinterland feature preciousmetal
threads, indicative of their association with the affluent
echelons of society. This paper catalogues the findings thus far,
focusing on 30 textile fragments adorned with delicately cut
strips of pressed sheet metal spirally wound around organic yarn
(or independent metal strips that were an integral part of a textile
item whose organic part has disintegrated). These samples
hail from seven medieval cemeteries: Crkvina in Biskupija, Crkvina
under Bogdanić, Čovini-Crikvine, Dol in Bribir near Skradin,
Grborezi, Holy Saviour (or Salvation) near the spring of the River
Cetina, and Štale in Bribir near Novi Vinodolski. The dating of the
collected specimens varies; the earliest, from Crkvina in Biskupija,
dates to the early 9th century, while others are predominantly
from the late Middle Ages. The studies include applying physicochemical
methods with a scanning electron microscope (SEM)
with an X-ray detector for elemental analysis (EDS), which, in addition
to micromorphological processing, more extensively analyse
the chemical composition of the threads. It is pointed out
that lamellas made of pure gold were used only in the earliest
medieval period. They were soon replaced by composite threads,
usually gilded silver wrapped around organic yarn. The evolution
of precious-metal thread production for textile adornment was
aimed at reducing weight, enhancing flexibility, and lowering
production costs. Furthermore, the analysis sheds light on the
technology of crafting garments incorporating such threads.
Even in cases where the organic components of the textile have
decayed, meticulously excavated metal threads can yield crucial
insights into the production of the attire.
Ključne riječi
Hrčak ID:
320804
URI
Datum izdavanja:
19.9.2024.
Posjeta: 0 *