Preliminary communication

Numerical modelling of morphodynamics of the Medveja pebble beach cross section

Goran Lončar orcid.org/0000-0002-6466-3677 ; University of Zagreb, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Department for Water Research, Zagreb, Croatia
Damir Bekić orcid.org/0000-0003-4412-1595 ; University of Zagreb, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Department for Water Research, Zagreb, Croatia
Dalibor Carević orcid.org/0000-0002-4634-6192 ; University of Zagreb, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Department for Water Research, Zagreb, Croatia
Hrvoje Mostečak ; University of Zagreb, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Department for Water Research, Zagreb, Croatia
Maria Babić ; University of Zagreb, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Department for Water Research, Zagreb, Croatia
Nina Grbić ; University of Zagreb, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Department for Water Research, Zagreb, Croatia
Vjera Pranjić ; University of Zagreb, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Department for Water Research, Zagreb, Croatia

Abstract

A numerical analysis was conducted to determine the morphodynamics of the Medveja pebble beach characteristic cross section. Pebbled movement in the beach / seabed profile is primarily induced by gravity wind waves, whereas marine currents caused by tidal force, current gradients and drift currents were not taken into account. A numerical model of wave generation and wave deformation was initally established for the waters of Kvarner and Rijeka Bays to calculate the spatial and temporal distribution of significant wave heights HS and peak wave periods TP in 2013. The model results HS and TP for the deep water point in front of the Meveja cove define the boundary conditions of a detailed model of wave deformation and morphodynamics in the transitional and shallow water area for the characteristic Medveja Cove pebble beach / seabed profile. The paper contains an analysis of a hypothetical profile obtained by backfilling on the actual (recorded) profile to achieve increased bathing area. The results of model analyses indicate zones with marked erosion and sedimentation along the analysed profile and a tendency of establishing the equilibrium profile which coincides with the actual measured profile. The modelcalculated profile was compared with the empirically calculated profile. The results of the numerical morphodynamic model confirm the possibility of its application to assessment of the intensity of destructive activity of strong waves on pebble beaches.

Keywords

pebble beach; numerical model XBeach-G; morphodynamics

Hrčak ID:

156297

URI

https://hrcak.srce.hr/156297

Publication date:

28.3.2016.

Article data in other languages: croatian

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