Original scientific paper
https://doi.org/10.17018/portal.2019.4
Renaissance gold velvet chasuble from the Hvar cathedral
Marta Budicin
; Croatian Conservation Institute, Section for Movable Heritage Documentation, Zagreb, Croatia
Sandra Lucić Vujičić
orcid.org/0000-0002-9238-2784
; Croatian Conservation Institute, Department for Textiles, Paper and Leather, Zagreb, Croatia
Abstract
The gold velvet chasuble from the Cathedral of St. Stephen I, Pope and Martyr, is a remarkable example of the so-called velluto a riccio d’oro golden velvet, a unique decorative typology in our area. It was made using purple cut silk velvet with a pattern of complex axisymmetric composition of a maglie ovaliformi typology formed with connected pointed ovals of twisted stylized branches with a motif of luxurious rosette and sempervivum tectorum succulent flowers, buds of the same plant, as well as hibiscus, pomegranate and thistle flowers, pomegranate fruit, and cones on pine twigs. It is a patterned silk cut velvet with gros de Tours ground weave, formed by ground warp and weft threads. The decoration base is woven with yellow covering lancé weft and thin gilded threads (filé), also in the lancé effect. The velvet ornament is formed by purple silk-fibre cut pile warp, and two gilded wefts: a thinner gilded lancé thread and a thicker gilded broché thread.
Both gilded threads are used to create the bouclé effect on the motifs. The motifs are framed with a thin, continuous contour line of purple cut velvet. Based on similar examples, the chasuble can be dated to the late 15th and early 16th century. Considering the technical characteristics of the fabric, it is a product made in one of the most prominent Italian textile workshops, probably in Venice, although a Florentine origin should also be considered. For years, the chasuble was exhibited in the Museum and Treasury at the Episcopal Palace in Hvar, and – due to inadequate storage in a small display cabinet, numerous
inappropriate interventions and the weight of the main fabric – it sustained extensive damage that weakened the structure of the main fabric. When retrieving the chasuble for extensive conservation, a stole and maniple belonging to the same liturgical set were found on the hanger. During 2018, comprehensive conservation was carried out on the chasuble, the most complex phase being the removal of historical interventions carried out with thick threads, and the repair of the resulting damage to the main fabric. The chasuble was also lined with a new red silk lining, since the rest of the original red lining was
found during conservation.
Keywords
liturgical textiles; restoration; gold velvet; rizzo soprarizzo silk velvet; lancé; liseré; broché; bouclé; Hvar Cathedral
Hrčak ID:
231788
URI
Publication date:
31.12.2019.
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